Dunc’s BBQ Delivers Big Portions and Small-Town Charm

I’d somehow never stopped into Dunc’s BBQ before, despite the fact that it has been quietly operating on Jackson Street since 2019, just a couple blocks off the route I’d normally take into downtown Newnan.

That may be part of its charm.

Nestled just past the old Newnan Hospital, Dunc’s feels a little tucked away — the kind of neighborhood barbecue spot you discover once and then immediately start telling your friends about, partly because the food is that good and partly because you want to make sure a local place like this sticks around.

I met State Sen. Matt Brass there for lunch and conversation, though his schedule had him running a bit behind. That gave me time to settle in, observe the room, and realize pretty quickly that Dunc’s has built a loyal crowd.

Nearly every table in the restaurant was occupied, and nearly every table was filled with men — Georgia Power workers, professionals on lunch break, a sheriff’s deputy, and courthouse regulars who appeared to know both the staff and each other. Brass, who lives nearby, pointed out people he recognized from around town as he arrived.

“This is literally two blocks from my house,” Brass said. “This is my neighborhood.”

The restaurant itself leans comfortably into Southern barbecue aesthetics without feeling manufactured. Checked tablecloths, rustic signage, paper towel rolls at every table — practical décor for a place where sauce accidents are apparently part of the experience.

As one of the uninitiated, I learned that quickly.

Dunc’s barbecue sauce is excellent, but if you squeeze the bottle too enthusiastically, you may find yourself wearing some of it. Fortunately, the paper towels were within arm’s reach.

I ordered the brisket sandwich with smoked cabbage on the side and added a $1 order of hush puppies because, frankly, fried cornbread improves almost any Wednesday meeting.

The brisket sandwich exceeded expectations immediately. Sometimes barbecue sandwiches can be a little sad — mostly bread, sparse meat, and disappointment tucked under a bun. This was not that.

The sandwich arrived piled high with thick slices of brisket that were genuinely fork-tender, smoky without being overpowering, and perfectly complemented by the mild house sauce.

The smoked cabbage may have been the sleeper hit of the meal. Tender and richly seasoned, it included chunks of smoked meat throughout, giving it the depth and savoriness you hope for in a proper Southern side dish.

And the hush puppies? Crispy outside, soft inside, and absolutely worth the extra dollar.

Meanwhile, Brass ordered the smoked turkey sandwich and a side of fried okra, which he ate almost casually, like popcorn. Even as someone who typically avoids okra, I had to admit it looked pretty tempting.

“He moved here and opened this place, and I’d heard it was delicious,” Brass said of owner Steve Duncan. “I’m always going to try the barbecue places.”

Brass particularly recommended the Alabama white sauce.

Service at Dunc’s may have been the most surprising part of the visit. For a busy local barbecue restaurant, the attentiveness stood out immediately. My Coke Zero was refilled repeatedly without my ever asking. Staff moved quickly, checked tables frequently, and managed to make the experience feel genuinely welcoming rather than transactional.

That kind of hospitality matters.

Too often, barbecue restaurants lean on the quality of the meat while forgetting the overall experience. Dunc’s appears to understand both.

The portions are unapologetically large — man-sized, honestly — and nobody leaves looking hungry. But the restaurant’s appeal goes beyond quantity. It feels lived in, local, and comfortable in its own identity.

For Brass, it is clearly a neighborhood staple. For me, it was an unexpectedly excellent first visit that likely won’t be my last.

Dunc’s BBQ Kitchen is located at 98 Jackson Street in Newnan, just west of downtown near the old Newnan Hospital campus. The restaurant is typically open Tuesday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. and Sundays from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.