Pruning roses can strike fear in the hearts of most novice (and many experienced) gardeners. One of the most frequently asked questions gardening experts receive is how to correctly prune a rose. If you are going to grow roses, you need to have some basic understanding of why and how to cut back your plants.
Pruning is first about shaping a rounded, balanced plant that is pleasing to the eye. But it accomplishes far more than just creating a good look. Proper pruning opens up the plant to increased air circulation which keeps foliage dry and discourages fungal disease. A good pruning means a vigorous, healthy plant that will bloom profusely.
Since February is the perfect time to tackle this task, I’ve gathered tips on proper techniques.
Tip #1: Be Safe. Make sure your tetanus shot is up-to-date. Puncture wounds from rose thorns can become infected and are fertile ground for the tetanus bacteria. All homeowners working in the garden should have a current tetanus shot.
Tip #2: Be Prepared. Before you start pruning, you need to have the proper tools. A top quality bypass pruner (which cuts like scissors) gets the job done and is worth the extra cost. I use a Felco pruner that I purchased online with a lifetime warranty. Felco has a smaller-sized pruner (no. 6) that is perfect for women with smaller hands. Other high quality pruners can be purchased from ARS, Fiskars, and Corona. For larger, thicker canes, you will need loppers. Protective gloves are a must before tackling thorny roses. Most rose enthusiasts use thick, leather elbow-length gloves.
Tip #3: First prune out the “Three D’s” – dead, damaged or diseased branches (canes). Look over your rose carefully and remove these branches.
Tip #4: Be brave! Reduce the size of your shrub to allow the plant’s energy to be concentrated in just a few new, healthy canes that are about the diameter of your thumb. Most types of roses will thrive when you leave just six to eight strong canes. According to the South Metro Rose Society, hybrid teas and grandiflora roses should be reduced 1/2 to 2/3 their original height. Shrub roses, climbers, antiques, and floribundas need much lighter pruning. Once-blooming roses should be pruned after they bloom.
Tip #5: Know the proper cut technique. Make a slanting cut just above an outward facing bud eye. (Bud eyes are the purplish, crescent-shaped swellings on the stem where branching occurs). Cutting on a slant keeps moisture from collecting in the cut area. Pruning an outward-facing bud eye means the new growth will be directed away from the center of the plant. After making your cut, examine the tissue to make sure it is a healthy greenish color. If you find just brown tissue, cut down lower to get past the area of die-back.
Tip #6: Remove stems (suckers) that emerge below the bud union of a grafted rose. The bud union is the knobby area from which the canes grow. Suckers are the undesirable growth coming from the rootstock.
Tip #7: Don’t stress! Rose pruning is not an exact science and a poor cut will not kill your plant. You will gain experience as you practice the technique. Don’t worry if your plant looks small and pathetic after the winter pruning. You will be amazed at how fast it begins to grow and flourish in the spring!
Tip #8: Attend a pruning class to give yourself some confidence! The South Metro Rose Society is offering a free pruning demonstration on Saturday, February 15, at 10:30 a.m. in the garden of Master Rosarian, Cindy Dale, 306 Wintney Way, in Peachtree City.