I'm going to confess that steaming hasn't been a favorite cooking technique of mine. The memory of cafeteria-style steam tables holding their cargo of limp broccoli stems has been hard to overcome.

But Middle Eastern and Asian cultures have cooked with steam for centuries. In those cuisines, vivid tastes - sweet, salty, sour, bitter and pungent - are layered through some of the world's greatest dishes.

In "The Breath of a Wok: Unlocking the Spirit of Chinese Wok Cooking Through Recipes and Lore" (Simon & Schuster, $35), author Grace Young says steaming is an ancient Chinese cooking technique and one of the Eight Treasured Tastes.

In Chinese culture, dim sum, whole fish, chicken, meat and vegetables are all steamed in a wok. The bamboo steamer is often lined with cabbage leaves, which not only prevents food from sticking to the basket but also lends a suggestion of flavor.

Another ingenious technique is to form an "X" with a pair of chopsticks. They are placed above a shallow pool of boiling water in the bottom of a wok, and a heat-proof dish or plate holding the food rests on top. The dish captures juices and flavorings such as soy or Thai fish sauce, slivers of ginger or minced chilies.

In North Africa, couscous is traditionally steamed in a distinctive two-tiered pot called a couscousiere. In the bottom, lamb or chicken are cooked with vegetables and spices, their moisture releasing fragrant steam that plumps tiny grains of couscous in the perforated upper tier. Often a small bowl of spicy harissa sauce is served on the side. It's a deliciously complex dish, well-flavored and hardly tame.

Even to a skeptic. Scallop and shiitake dumplings

8 dried shiitake mushrooms

8 ounces fresh sea scallops, minced

6 ounces ground pork

1/4 cup finely minced carrot

1 tablespoon minced Chinese chives or regular chives

1 teaspoon cornstarch

2 teaspoons sesame oil

2 teaspoons soy sauce

3/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper

28 won ton wrappers

Napa cabbage leaves or cheesecloth

Additional soy sauce and sesame oil for serving

1. Soak mushrooms in warm water just to cover about 30 minutes or until softened. Drain and squeeze excess moisture from mushrooms. Cut off and discard stems; mince caps.

2. Combine minced mushrooms with scallops, pork, carrot, chives, cornstarch, sesame oil, soy sauce, salt, sugar and pepper. Place about a third of the won ton wrappers at a time on a work surface and cover the rest with plastic wrap or slightly damp paper towels to keep moist and pliable. Place a small bowl of cold water nearby. Drop a scant tablespoon of filling on the center of a wonton and lightly moisten the edge with water.

3. Begin to bring up the edge by making small S-shaped folds one at a time, and pinching them firmly together. (You'll be forming a shape that resembles a drawstring purse with the filling in the center.) Gather folds at the top and press together, using a little more water if needed.

4. Arrange dumplings in a bamboo steamer basket lined with cabbage leaves. Bring water to a boil in a wok. Place basket above the water, cover and steam about 10 minutes. The pork should be cooked through and the won ton wrappers should be tender, although the tops will still be a bit firm. Test one dumpling to be sure pork is cooked through. Serve immediately with additional soy sauce and sesame oil.

Makes 28 pieces. From "The Breath of the Wok" by Grace Young (Simon &Schuster, $35). Steamed clams with coconut milk and lemongrass broth

1 stalk lemongrass

2 thick green onions

1 tablespoon peeled and minced fresh ginger root

1 small serrano chili, seeded and minced

1 strip (about 3-by-2-inches) lime zest

1-1/4 cups dry white wine

1 cup bottled clam juice

2-3/4 pounds Manila clams, scrubbed

1/2 cup unsweetened coconut milk

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1 tablespoon lime juice

White rice for serving

1. Place a wide, shallow serving bowl in a warm oven to heat, then turn off oven. Peel away the dry outer leaves of lemongrass to reveal the softer, inner core. Slice crosswise into paper thin slices; measure 1 tablespoon. Thinly slice the whites of the onions. Chop a little of the greens for garnish and set aside.

2. In a 5-to 6-quart pot combine lemongrass, green onion, ginger, chili, lime zest, wine and clam juice. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer 5 minutes.

3. Bring broth