Who would think something described as "immature" could add such flavor to dishes?

That's the case with green onions, though.

You also may know them as scallions, a name attached to several types of young onions, including a specific variety known as the scallion as well as young leeks and shallot tops.

According to Sharon Tyler Herbst's "Food Lover's Companion" (Barron's, $14.95), green onions have a white base that is not yet a fully developed bulb, with long, straight green leaves - all of which is edible.

The green onion's flavor is delicate; the onion's bright color makes it a festive garnish, particularly when chopped into thin rings and scattered atop a dip or casserole like confetti.

Where are green onions grown?

Many of the green onions we buy from groceries probably are from California or Texas, the two largest producers of green onions in the United States. According to the S.C. Ag Statistics office, California grew about 3,000 acres of green onions in 2002, the last year for which stats are available. Texas produced about 700 acres the same year.

What is the difference between the green onion and the scallion?

A specific variety of onion is known as the scallion, but the name "green onion" also means immature onions that have a undeveloped white bulb at the base. A true scallion is straight at its base; the immature onion is slightly rounded. Sharon Tyler Herbst notes in "The Food Lover's Companion" that scallions have a milder flavor, though the two can be used interchangeably.

How do I select green onions?

You want those with bright green tops that appear firm, not limp and soggy. The white base also should be firm.

How should green onions be stored?

It's best to keep them wrapped in plastic in the crisper drawer of your refrigerator to prevent their flavor and aroma from seeping into other vegetables. Discard after about five days.

Are green onions only used as garnish or as additions to salads and dips?

No, they're actually quite tasty cooked in garlic and butter and eaten on their own (see the casserole recipe). In this form, they resemble the leek, an ancient vegetable that is much larger than the green onion but that has a lovely, milder flavor. Salsa shrimp dip

4 ounces (half of an 8-ounce package) Philadelphia Neufchatel Cheese, softened (Neufchatel is used because it has less fat than cream cheese, which can be used instead.)

6-ounce jar chunky salsa

6-ounce can tiny shrimp, drained

1/2 cup chopped celery

1/4 cup sliced green onions

Wheat Thins (reduced-fat) crackers

Beat Neufchatel cheese in a small bowl with an electric mixer until smooth.

Gradually beat in salsa until well blended.

Stir in shrimp, celery and green onions until well blended. Cover.

Refrigerate at least 1 hour.

Serve as dip with crackers. Makes 20 servings.

From "Kraft Food & Family" ( www.kraftfoods.com ). Green onion casserole

8 medium bunches scallions, cut crosswise into 1-inch pieces (about 16 cups)

2 garlic cloves, minced

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/4 cup heavy cream

1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 cups bread crumbs

Preheat oven to 350 degrees and butter a 1-1/2-quart shallow baking dish.

In a skillet, cook scallions and garlic in butter over moderate heat until scallions soften, about 20 minutes. Stir in cream and 1/4 cup Parmesan; transfer to a baking dish.

In a skillet, heat oil over moderately high heat until hot, but not smoking; sauté bread crumbs, stirring until golden brown, about 3 minutes.

Transfer bread crumbs to a bowl and cool. Add remaining 1/4 cup Parmesan and season with salt and pepper.

Top casserole with bread crumb mixture. Bake, uncovered, in middle of oven until hot, 15-20 minutes. Makes 8 servings.

Note: May be made one day ahead and chilled, covered. Bring to room temperature before baking.

From Gourmet Magazine (December 1995); epicurious.com. Green onion biscuits

3 cups all-purpose flour

1-1/2 tablespoons baking powder

1-1/2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2-1/3 cups chilled whipping cream

1-1/2 cups thinly sliced green onions

2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) butter, melted

Preheat oven to 425 degrees.

Mix flour, baking powder, salt and pepper in a large bowl.

Mix cream and green onions in a medium bowl.

Add cream mixture to dry ingredients. Stir until moist clumps form.

Transfer dough to floured work surface. Knead just until dough holds together, about 8 turns.

Shape into 8-inch square. Cut out 16, 2-inch-square biscuits. Transfer biscuits to large baking sheet, spacing 1-1/2 inches apart. Brush top of biscuits with melted butter.

Bake biscuits until golden and cooked through, about 18 minutes. Serve warm. Makes 8 servings.

Note: Can be made eight hours ahead. Cool. Wrap in foil. Store at room temperature. Rewarm wrapped biscuits in 350-degree oven until heated through, about 8 minutes.

From Bon Appetit (April 1999); www.epicurious.com .

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